Friend of mine posted this on his FB. pretty sick looking project, car trailer and bike. Anyone know if this is a member or not? <br />
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<a href="http://www.stancenation.com/2012/10/31/budget-build-stunt-hauler/" target="_blank">http://www.stancenation.com/2012/10/...-stunt-hauler/</a>

Disclaimer: Do the following at your own risk. You assume responsibility for your bike. I'm not responsible for rev limiter coasters, hitting the lotto for 100 million, your girlfriend leaving you because you spend all day at the spot, or any other crazy shit.<br />
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I've been meaning to post this and several other things for a while but been busy so over next few days I'm going to try and share them. I've had this on my bike for months and had no issues other than listed below....<br />
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First of all this works fine but you will need to either unhook the gauge cluster after you adjust to the idle you want or do the following(thanks Tyson) or the idle goes nuts, I'm talking creeping up to 8k nuts. Also sorry for sideways pics, photobucket is lame.<br />
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<img src="images/legacy/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>tys0n</strong>
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<div class="message">IM going to explain in more clear detail than any thread ive found how this works on a 07+ 600rr. It makes the idle smooth on these bikes by disconnecting the speed sensor obviously most people that have this bike know about this mod. You can also disconnect the Pink/ Green wire that hooks into a plug next to the gauge cluster/headlight harness. This is the wire that sends the signal from the ecu to the gauge cluster. This is the wire i couldnt figure out why it was unplugged. It makes the idle perfect having it unplugged as well. Also if your having problems with idle and have unhooked your servo motor for you exhaust this will mess up the idle. you can unhook the mechanical part but not the wires. <br />
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Now say you wanna hit the street and need your speedo Turn your idle down and just plug the VS (vehicle speed) sensor back in, and the pink and green signal wire and your golden. <br />
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For me this information was extremely hard to find out. I found vague explanations.. but no comprehensive tell all. I had to spend a while searching through a wiring diagram chasing all these wires around to figure out why the pink and green wire was unplugged. I hope this helps someone else <img src="images/legacy/smilies/rockwoot.gif" border="0" alt="" title="YEAH" class="inlineimg" /></div>

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</div> I put that first so you would read it. Here's the tools and parts you will need to do this:<br />
Tools:<br />
-Allen wrenches(very small one to remove stopper in TB)<br />
-Socket wrenches<br />
-screw drivers<br />
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Parts:<br />
-You can use several stock Honda idle cables, I used one from an F2( part# 16029-mv9-670). Here's where I got it, cost me $15 shipped if I remember:<br />
<a href="http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-16029-MV9-670.html" target="_blank">http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts...9-MV9-670.html</a><br />
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Step 1:Remove the fairings, air box, etc all the way to the throttle boddies. This is the hardest part, Honda wraps everything around the airbox.<br />
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Should see this now:<br />
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<img src="http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/jlparks1902/IMG_0247.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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Next remove this bolt, this is where your idle cable will screw into<br />
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<img src="http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/jlparks1902/IMG_0247-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/jlparks1902/IMG_0246-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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Now screw your idle cable in:<br />
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<img src="http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/jlparks1902/IMG_0250-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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From here you just have to decide where and how you want to route the cable just make sure it doesn't get pinched or stuck otherwise you'll be taking everything back apart. If you're not FF, there's plenty of room to run it straight back and to the left. It's so open there you could almost put a small cooler in there.<br />
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<img src="http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/jlparks1902/IMG_0251.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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Hope this helps, enjoy.

Disclaimer: Do the following at your own risk, it's your bike. If you screw it up it's not my fault. Also, You'll be working with heat so don't burn yourself, blow yourself up, burn the hair off your dog, maim your cat, etc. You do the following at your own risk!<br />
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I did this several months back and never posted. It's pretty easy. I'm assuming you already have a cage installed to do it this way.<br />
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Tools needed:<br />
-Allen wrenches<br />
-Sockets<br />
-Hammers- body hammers and blocks work best for denting portion, you can pick up a set at harbor freight for around $20<br />
-Heat gun<br />
-various size blocks of wood<br />
-Phone book<br />
-ratchet straps<br />
-Pair of gloves<br />
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Optional:<br />
-Spray paint<br />
-Traction pad<br />
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Step 1: Remove fairings including tank cover<br />
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step 2: dent your tank, don't have pics of this part but start towards the gas lid and work out. Use the phone book to beat on around the lid unless you want to replace the broken cap. Keep working your way towards the back of the bike until you're happy with the depth. If you get a fold stop beating that area down or you could tear the metal.<br />
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Here's a pic of mine after denting the metal(sorry the pic is a little blurry):<br />
<img src="http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/jlparks1902/IMG_0463.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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step 3: Put the tank cover back on and bolt the sides back down. Now warm up your heat gun.<br />
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Step 4: form the plastic. Start by heating an area and continually move the heat gun, don't stay on one area for a long time. Put a pair of gloves on and start pressing the plastic into the dent.<br />
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Step 5: After trying to get the plastic to stay in place I found it kept popping back out so I did the following. Grab some wood and some ratchet straps. Put the wood in the dent and run the ratchet straps across the bike hooking them to your cage. Heat an area and while doing so tighten down the straps. Let it cool and move to another area. If you take your time you will get the plastic to fit the dent and line up with the cap perfectly. Here are some pics of this method:<br />
<img src="http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/jlparks1902/IMG_0288.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/jlparks1902/IMG_0289.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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Now either repaint it, throw a wrap on it, put some traction pad on it, or leave it.<br />
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Here's a pic of HT Moto traction pad I got from Zeus(awesome price and fast shipping) when I started installing it after denting.<br />
<img src="http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/jlparks1902/IMG_0291.jpg" border="0" alt="" />

Hey guys I have all sorts of parts <br />
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Parting out an entire 02 954 except the front end is already gone everything else is there and minty fresh <br />
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07 600 rr- complete front end, set up with db bars right fork leaks, comes complete including stainless brake lines, and master for 325obo plus shipping <br />
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F4i-wiring harness (some kickoff spliced it everywhere ) I didn't have issues bit I swapped it when I did a complete overhaul this last winter 20 shipped its yours <br />
Two side failings red and black have holes for cage and some damage 75 plus shipping<br />
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Misc- acerbis headlight, needs nee straps they will work but maybe not that long lol 65 shipped and its yours <br />
Dual caliper brackets we can do for 150 shipped will work on 636 and <br />
4i as long as we have some in stock hit me up for anything hell if I don't have it a buddy might <br />
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Easiest way to get a hold of me is texting I can send pics of everything listed above I'm located in st Joseph mo and ride with stunt joe mafia 8163871835

Anyone looking for guns or accessories? I am taking over my old mans FFL. I will def give the SR discount! <img src="images/legacy/smilies/cool018.gif" border="0" alt="" title="PIMP!" class="inlineimg" />

From what I have heard all the NJ guys are good.

Finally decided to sell my ATC R6 subframe and flat scrape bar designed to bolt to the ATC subframe; Looks like I won't be getting an R6 so no point in holding on to this any longer. It was purchased about 3 years ago and was never installed since I never ended up with an R6. Will fit 03-05 R6 and the 03-09 R6S. <br />
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I don't know what happened to the hardware (Nuts and Bolts) so you will have to get that on your own, but that won't be more than $10-15.<br />
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This would cost $392 plus $96 for the scrape bar plus shipping.<br />
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I'll let it go for $225 plus shipping.<br />
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Might be interested in a trade for 03-04 636 FTI or HoHey dual caliper bracket and Brembo master cylinder...trying to finish setting up my 636.

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<a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?7ex6308lcwt0ydx" target="_blank">http://www.mediafire.com/?7ex6308lcwt0ydx</a><br />
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<font color="red">Not sure if anyone needs or would like a copy of </font><br />
<font color="#ff0000">the oem service manual but i stumbled across this and </font><br />
<font color="#ff0000">downloaded it and ran through it and is legit.</font><br />
<font color="#ff0000"><img src="images/legacy/smilies/cheers.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Cheers" class="inlineimg" /></font>

have a good time all,def a great cause!