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+--- Thread: another valve question (/showthread.php?tid=22064)
another valve question - danger_dave - 08-16-2026
\r\n \r\n oh well "its better than it was"
\r\nlooks like i am going to slap everything back together and check it again next time i change my oil. time to get back out there and ride this thing.\r\n
another valve question - danger_dave - 08-16-2026
\r\n \r\n has anybody ever adjusted valves on a bike?\r\n
another valve question - richd3000 - 08-16-2026
\r\n \r\n Are u checking two spots then turning crank nchecking 2 more... So on... When I adjusted my f4i valves I noticed my Honda manual has a specific order/way to check em. Its not like the 636 where u turn crank n check half then turn n check other half...\r\n
another valve question - richd3000 - 08-16-2026
\r\n \r\n When I first opened my f4i n tried to check em like I do on my 636 I got crazy wrong numbers... Then I got the honda manual and read the special order n way to do it n got more reasonable numbers. If u did follow the manual, n still came out wrong u either measured wrong or bad math...\r\n
another valve question - danger_dave - 08-16-2026
\r\n \r\n yeah i followed what the manual said. the reason it has you rotate the crank like that is so it puts the cam in a position where it is on the base circle of the lobe, and not putting any pressure on the lifters. as the cam spins it takes turns opening and closing each set of valves, and you are just putting it in positions that makes you able to check them all.
\r\n
\r\ngoing to sync my throttle bodies, ride the piss out of it, and then check them again and see. im willing to bet after that cam spins around a couple thousand times my motor will all settle and get cozy and be good as new!\r\n
another valve question - danger_dave - 01-02-2011
honda f4i
just got everything all put back together with the new shims, new cct.
cam sprockets and crank are perfectly aligned.
everythings been coated with oil, torqued in the proper sequence, triple checked and i even cranked the motor by hand a few times to help everything reseat itself.
intake valve clearance specified is .008" +/- .001"
exhaust valve clearance specified is .011" +/- .001"
bike was running rough, and what i had for clearance was
intakes .004"
exhaust .006"
way too tight!
i went ahead and put shims that are .004" thinner and i now have .008" great intake clearance
for the exhaust i put shims that are .006" thinner, and for some reason they are still too tight.
exhaust valves are all measuring .009" (which is a tight fit)
i dont understand why. my clearance should be .012"
do i need to run the bike and heat cycle it or anything like that and let it cool off, then recheck them? i have not run the bike yet and dont get why they are that tight.
i took a piece of cardboard and held the old shims onto it all in a row with tape,
so i kept track of exactly what it had. i measured them all with a micrometer. measured all the new shims from the hot cams kit with a micrometer. and i even measured my feeler gauge to make sure it is accurate. i kept a log with all the math and recorded clearances, that i have verified, and i havent found any errors.