so i was reading the newest issue of superstreetbike mag, and there was an artical on bill d. while reading this they have a pic of his bike which shows everything on it and it says wat it is etc.<br />
<br />
while looking at this i saw he was running run man products on his bike, i googled it and i couldnt find any info on this stuff. so i was wondering who all has heard of these guys and where is thier stuff listed cuz the stuff looks pretty good.

The idea of STUNT GRAND PRIX� is to introduce a series of such events, that would take place in many European countries (e.g. GP of Germany, GP of France, GP of Poland or GP of Spain). Thanks to the cup tournament Stunt Grand PriX� will make it possible to select the champion of our continent. <br />
<br />
Undoubtedly, such a formula of competition will not only support the promotion of Stuntriding, making this spectacular sports discipline more recognizable and appreciated, but will also make it possible to standardize the scoring methods, establish a permanent jury and create opportunities of gaining new sponsors.<br />
Due to the fact that there are many issues yet to be discussed, any contact with people interested in continuation of Stunt GP�, both in Poland and in other countries, is welcome.<br />
<br />
The USA has its XDL formula <a href="http://www.xdlshow.com" target="_blank">www.xdlshow.com</a><br />
Europe will have the Stunt Grand PriX�! <a href="http://www.stuntgp.eu" target="_blank">www.stuntgp.eu</a><br />
<br />
The prize money awarded in the StuntGP 2011 competition will be distributed as follows:<br />
<br />
Place: Amount:<br />
<font color="Red">1-Place 5 000,00 USD + cup</font><br />
2-Place 2 500,00 USD + cup <br />
3-Place 1 500,00 USD + cup <br />
4-Place 800,00 USD<br />
5-Place 500,00 USD<br />
6-10-Place 200,00 USD<br />
11-15-Place 100,00 USD<br />
<br />
AC Farias head of the jury 15-17th July in Poland.<br />
<img src="http://stuntgp.eu/uploads/images/ac_farias.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
AC Farias pioneered freestyle bike riding on the global scale. For this reason he is called &quot;the Godfather&quot; of the stunt riding in the world.<br />
<br />
That was in 2010<br />
Video by Marcin Idziaszek <a href="http://www.stuntstyle.com" target="_blank">www.stuntstyle.com</a><br />
<object width="425" height="350"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/BAuljLJzqTw"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/BAuljLJzqTw" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"></embed></object>

i searched and couldnt find anything but sale adds.<br />
i talked to a few people and they told me that the magura doesnt have the bite that the brembo does at all. also i was told that the brembo is on off which i know cause thats what i run but they said the magura is not like this. so someone please give me some input.<br />
i did not create this thread for which one is best just wanna know the pros and cons of each

Trying to help all the new 03-04 636 stunt owners by making one thread for the 03-04 bike.<br />
<br />
Forks: <br />
03-04 forks have a high record of breaking. Its cause they have a thinner wall on the chrome part of the fork. Take a thin piece of steel and bend it back and forth a few times and see how quickly it cracks then add up the amount of times you have grabbed the front brake to do a stoppie..<br />
<br />
Fork Swap:<br />
05-08 forks easly swap with the 03-04. All ya need is the rotors, and fender of the year your wanting to swap out with. <br />
05-06, 07-08.<br />
Gas tank reinforcement: <br />
Tired of your gas tank wobbling everytime you sit on it. onewheelneal posted a nice fix. <br />
<img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z288/onewheelneal/Misc%20Pics/tanksave.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
And here's a pic of inolens that you can sorta see <br />
<br />
<img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z288/onewheelneal/Misc%20Pics/31362_113575235354428_1007817666337.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
Is for the 03/04 636's. Mine looks more like inolens. The rear tank mounts on the Kawi's bend easily so this gives the tank a little extra support so they wont bend as easy. It also makes your tank more firm for when doing tank tricks - you wont feel your tank wobbling side to side at all. It's attached to the cross bar on the subframe with two zip ties and you have to drill one hole for your gas overflow tube to go through. You can see all of that easily in the first picture. Any questions - well there shouldn't be any coz it's pretty damn easy. I don't know what/if any other years it would work on. I know the 05+ Kawi tanks are a different monster so not sure if it would work on those or if you could make one work somehow of if its even needed <img src="images/legacy/smilies/shruggs.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Shruggs" class="inlineimg" /> But for the 03/04 all you need is a kitchen cutting board and a dremel or saw to cut. You could also use a piece of wood the same thickness I'd assume but I only know a few people who have this and all of them have used a kitchen cutting board which you can get from Walmart for $8 lol. <br />
<br />
Ive also taken some big rubber pads and glued them to the bottom of the tank above were they are able to sit on the top of the air box.<br />
<br />
Frame:<br />
If you've been on stuntride you probably have seen how weak our frames are. From getting them welded to replacement. We'll start with replacment.<br />
SMD Frame:<br />
We've been working on a new frame design that fits in the &quot;freestyle budget&quot;.<br />
These new frames use the rear section of the stock frame. <br />
The kit comes with an aluminum insert that welds in to the stock frame (which must be cut in half). The SMD steal tubular frame then bolts into the modified stock frame.<br />
Cost: $1000<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m161/akt29/SMD/Kawa03-04_Assembled.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m161/akt29/SMD/Kawa03-04_RearSection.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m161/akt29/SMD/Kawa03-04_InsertCloseUp.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m161/akt29/SMD/Kawa03-04_FrontSection.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m161/akt29/SMD/Kawa03-04_AttachmentCloseUp.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m161/akt29/SMD/Kawa03-04_InBtwnView.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m161/akt29/SMD/Kawa03-04_Assembled2.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
Contact Twite for more information<br />
<br />
Static Moto: <br />
<br />
<b><a href="http://www.staticmoto.com/?page_id=27" target="_blank"><font color="#d9d9d9">Frames</font></a> </b><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.staticmoto.com/static/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/Frame-Intro-Paragraph.png" border="0" alt="" /><br />
They start at 2000. <a href="http://www.staticmoto.com/" target="_blank">http://www.staticmoto.com/</a> for more details<br />
<br />
Frame Welding/reinforceing: <br />
A few say do not weld on it until it needs welding. then once cracked brace the hell out of it. Krazykyle85 welds all his frames before he starts riding them. <br />
The key to aluminum is heat treat. Without heat treat whatever you weld will be soft and will not last as long as it should. If you over bake aluminum it will go soft. and then youd have to do alot of ish salvage it, pain in the arse. If you are welding. have it done by someone experienced. When heat treating also have someone that knows what there doing. <br />
<br />
<br />
Krazykyle85:<br />
Attached Thumbnails<br />
<a href="images/legacy/attachments/6973.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="images/legacy/attachments/6973.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a> <a href="images/legacy/attachments/6974.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="images/legacy/attachments/6974.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a> <a href="images/legacy/attachments/6975.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="images/legacy/attachments/6975.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
navajowalks:<br />
Not the same year.... but this is what I did on my 07<br />
<img src="http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu50/navajowalks/3cb04d1f.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu50/navajowalks/ddf8aeda.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu50/navajowalks/3870a909.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
JohnnyP:<br />
But on my year specificly I think the weak point is the motor mount ears... <br />
Heres a 05/06 frame I did, the funny thing is I thought this frame was good, untill I blasted it to powder coat it...Once it was blasted you could just barely see 4 stress cracks starting on the welds They were very small and hard to see with the paint on the frame...2 on each side.. Most peoples frames are already starting to crack like this, they just dont know it. Untill they start to spread....<br />
<br />
I tied both engine mounts into the head stock, and squared it all off...Its is 10x more rigid then before squaring it all off...There are 5 pieces of plate on each side welded together<br />
<img src="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/JohnnyP636/GOPR0127.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/JohnnyP636/GOPR0135.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/JohnnyP636/GOPR0172.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
Oil pickup: <br />
Haven't seen one made and haven't ever heard of needing one. omr suggests placing your bike on level ground and fill it until the oil almost fills up the whole glass window.<br />
<br />
Tos mod: Just drill alittle hole in the side of the <b><font color="#ffff00">tip</font></b> <b><font color="#ffff00">sensor</font></b> and fill it with glue/silicone. let it dry, the little donut inside wont move ever again. You could probably fill it with boogers too. <br />
Pull the rod and weight out. <br />
Be warned if you mod or remove it,it will keep running till you cut power with key/kill switch.<br />
<br />
Key Reloaction: <br />
Why would I want to do this? Good question. For most squids/newbies you don't. Reason the big boys do it is. When jumping through the bars there is a high possiblity of there foot hitting the key and haveing the bike shut off mid wheelie. <br />
Make a bracket that holds the ignition in. <img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z288/onewheelneal/Misc%20Pics/DSC01019.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
<br />
Kill switch Mod:<br />
easy. Drill a small hole into the switch. Then when ya go make wheelies stick a saftey pin in it. Do make sure your friends know where you relocated the key.<br />
<br />
Kleen air mod:<br />
The purpose of this <b><font color="#ffff00">mod</font></b> is to simply bypass the <b><font color="#ffff00">air</font></b> box so no oil can get in there and as a bonus you will also gain some performance from this <b><font color="#ffff00">mod</font></b> because it not only stops hot oily <b><font color="#ffff00">air</font></b> from getting in your <b><font color="#ffff00">air</font></b> box but it also creates a vacuum in the crankcase and that makes the bikes low end better ..<br />
It makes a vacuum because there are one way reed valves under the ports that the two short hoses are connected to and they are ported to the exhaust.. Easy way to see if you have done the <b><font color="#ffff00">mod</font></b> correctly is to pull your oil filler cap off and cover it with your hand , you should feel suction on your hand when you rev the bike .. <br />
before <br />
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/mrmotocross/stunt/100_0543.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
after<br />
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/mrmotocross/stunt/100_0549.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/mrmotocross/stunt/100_0550.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
OMR likes to just stick a long screw in the vacuum line that comes off the <b><font color="#ffff00">pair</font></b> <b><font color="#ffff00">valve</font></b> because those little caps like to get brittle and fall off but the stock vacuum line seems to stay pliable ..<br />
<br />
Also you dont need to replace the <b><font color="#ffff00">pair</font></b> <b><font color="#ffff00">valve</font></b> with a t fitting because once you unplug the vaccum line from the <b><font color="#ffff00">valve</font></b> it remains open and acts just like the t fitting ..<br />
<br />
03 04 is vacuum operated but im pretty sure the 05 06 is electric so just unplug the <b><font color="#ffff00">pair</font></b> <b><font color="#ffff00">valve</font></b> and that will disable it just like taking the vacuum line off the 03 04 <b><font color="#ffff00">pair</font></b> <b><font color="#ffff00">valve</font></b> <br />
Make sure you plug the opening in the airbox where the hoses that you removed were attached to. You can use bolts or whatever else you have laying around. Just put some silcone around it so it makes a tight seal.<br />
<br />
Radiator support: <br />
Cheap way is to use zip ties. If you use zip ties use industral zip ties. <br />
Or you can use Dcp rad supports<br />
<img src="http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g449/dillpickle83/03-04-big.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<a href="http://www.damagecontrolparts.com/" target="_blank">http://www.damagecontrolparts.com/</a> for more info

Anyone on here a fan of edged weapons? <br />
<br />
In my opinion you should really carry one always, and especially if you carry a concealed gun for defense. It is way more effective to have a layered defensive strategy if you can, and it's relative to the range of your enemy -vs- weapon effectiveness. Also one of the reasons in tactical shooting sports you see the &quot;3-gun&quot; courses...<br />
<br />
I was trained this general rule of thumb for layered defensive strategies- and they can change and overlap depending upon ammo used, situational specific info, and equipment specs.<br />
<br />
500 meters and less.... rifle<br />
100 meters and less..... shotgun<br />
50 meters and less.... handgun<br />
5 meters and less... knife<br />
<br />
I just picked up a new one that I like alot-<br />
<br />
<a href="http://sogknives.com/store/TF-7.html" target="_blank">http://sogknives.com/store/TF-7.html</a>

<p>Our Buddy and Stuntride Frontline rider Rok Bagoros of Slovenia had hooked up with the good people at KTM and gotten himself a new ride! Check our Rok’s new site as well at <a href="http://www.rokbagoros.com" target="_blank">www.rokbagoros.com</a>. We cant wait to see what Rok does once he gets his KTM broken in!</p>
<p> <img alt="Rok Bagoros Slovenia stuntrider signs with KTM" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-944" height="786" src="/images/archive/blog/blog_wp-content_uploads_2011_01_ROK-stunt-rider-560x786.jpg" title="ROK stunt rider" width="560"/></p>
<p><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="youtube-player" frameborder="0" height="345" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Yc5Sz3X0n4M" title="YouTube video player" type="text/html" width="560"></iframe></p>

<p>We have just recieved an email from the guys at XDL, these are the official dates for the 2011 XDL Championship series season.</p>
<p>Daytona Beach, FL – During Daytona Bike Week – @ DIS – March 9 – 12 (includes AFS)</p>
<p>Phoenix, AZ – During AZ Bike Week – @ Downtown Scottsdale – April 1 &amp; 2</p>
<p>Nashville, TN – XDL Freeride Festival – @ Nashville Superspeedway – June 10 &amp; 11 (includes AFS)</p>
<p>Monterey, CA – With MotoGP – @ MRLS or Downtown Monterey – July 22 &amp; 23</p>
<p>Indianapolis, IN – With MotoGP – @ Downtown Indianapolis – August 26 &amp; 27 </p>
<p>Notice that Daytona and Nashville both include the Stuntride AFS.. we cant be more happy! See ya there!</p>

<img src="images/legacy/smilies/LolLolLolLol.gif" border="0" alt="" title="LOL" class="inlineimg" /><br />
<br />
<a href="http://redding.craigslist.org/bar/2169767433.html" target="_blank">http://redding.craigslist.org/bar/2169767433.html</a>

That's right! I know it was suppose to drop a few weeks ago, but some of you know that my machinist is a bit of a lagger!<img src="images/legacy/smilies/LolLolLolLol.gif" border="0" alt="" title="LOL" class="inlineimg" /><br />
<br />
Sooooo......the new perch has a few slight changes that IMO, make a great product even BETTER!!<img src="images/legacy/smilies/rockwoot.gif" border="0" alt="" title="YEAH" class="inlineimg" /><br />
<br />
First, the perch is 4mm longer, resulting in a lever position that sits 4mm further off the bar than with the OG RSC setup. This allows for more lever adjustment, and a longer lever throw, helping those bikes that may have a few slightly warped clutch plates get complete engagement/disengagement. The original RSC geometry has also been maintained.<br />
<br />
Secondly, the perch clamping area has been slimmed down a bit to allow for tighter fitment w/ handbrakes, while losing NO strength.<br />
<br />
And Third, the corners of the perch body have been shaved down to also allow for tighter fitment without losing ANY strength.<br />
<br />
The result is a much more refined looking/feeling/functioning perch assembly. The machining is tighter, as you can see by the smooth fitment between the perch and cap on the new model compared to the old. I'm SUPER stoked on it, myself!<img src="images/legacy/smilies/rockwoot.gif" border="0" alt="" title="YEAH" class="inlineimg" /><br />
<br />
*TRADE-INS*<br />
<br />
If you are interested in trading in your OG RSC setup for one of the new redesigned RSCs, there are two options to choose from.<br />
<br />
1- Send in your entire RSC setup along w/ $35 sent to my Paypal, and I will send you back a new perch and cap w/ your old hardware and your old lever(bead-blasted and cleaned up).<br />
<br />
2- Send in your entire RSC setup along w/ $45 sent to my Paypal, and I will send you back a complete brand new setup.<br />
<br />
......if you want to receive an anodized RSC in return for your old unit, add $15<br />
<br />
Send OG RSCs to:<br />
<br />
Josh Miller<br />
2340 Rd. E<br />
Redwood Valley, CA<br />
95470<br />
<br />
....my Paypal addy is <a href="mailto:supernova@willitsonline.com">supernova@willitsonline.com</a> ......be sure to put &quot;RSC trade-in&quot; in the Paypal message box. <img src="images/legacy/smilies/cheers.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Cheers" class="inlineimg" /><br />
<br />
<br />
And now for the Pics!!<img src="images/legacy/smilies/rockwoot.gif" border="0" alt="" title="YEAH" class="inlineimg" /><img src="images/legacy/smilies/cool018.gif" border="0" alt="" title="PIMP!" class="inlineimg" /> <img src="images/legacy/smilies/rockwoot.gif" border="0" alt="" title="YEAH" class="inlineimg" /><br />
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<img src="http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff48/TheOnlyRighteous1/IMG_1899.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff48/TheOnlyRighteous1/IMG_1897.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff48/TheOnlyRighteous1/IMG_1896.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff48/TheOnlyRighteous1/IMG_1895.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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<img src="http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff48/TheOnlyRighteous1/IMG_1894.jpg" border="0" alt="" />

Hey guys, if I buy a new 520 chain and it has too many links, it can be cut down to fit the sprockets correct?