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So a dude came out to the lot last night with a minty bike, and well this happened. <br />
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Sorry about the lame copy, but had to share!<br />
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<p>Check this lil highspeed mousetrap that happened Friday Night at XDL Nashville.</p>
<p><iframe frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/25238252?color=c9ff23" width="560"></iframe>
<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/25238252">Bulgarian Mike brings the fury!</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/strictlystunt">Ross Sharrer</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a></p>
<p>show some love to the guys at <a href="http://www.strictlystunt.com" target="_blank">www.strictlystunt.com</a> and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/bulgarian.mike" target="_blank">Bulgarian Mike</a></p>


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<p>Cycle Path is hosting a small stunt contest at Extreme Autofest in San Diego with our buddy Eric E-Dub Whitcomb. The date is July 10. Check the flyer below for contact info:</p>
<p><img alt="cycle path stunt contest at extreme autofest san diego" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1066" height="784" src="/images/archive/blog/blog_wp-content_uploads_2011_06_SDcontest-560x784.jpg" title="cycle path stunt contest at extreme autofest san diego" width="560"/></p>

<p>We will have a booth set up at this event!</p>
<p><a href="http://www.hooligansmc.com"><img alt="hooligans mc modesto streetbike fest" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1074" height="410" src="/images/archive/blog/blog_wp-content_uploads_2011_06_hooligans-560x410.jpg" title="hooligans mc modesto streetbike fest" width="560"/></a></p>
<p>From their site: “Come join Hooligans MC July 9th 2011 for their 7th annual Streetbike fest. One of the largest FREE streebike stunt exhibitions in the country. With streetbike athletes from all over Northern and Southern California performing some of the sickest tricks you have ever seen done on a motorcycle. This is an all ages event so bring the family and enjoy a fun filled day downtown. There will be food, a vendor booth area, dyno runs, and much much more. You don’t want to miss this event so come on out and spend the day with Hooligans MC.”</p>

Looking for a new bike lost mine to the isurance company when they totaled it out gotta be street legal, would like a 636 but doesnt have to be, doesnt have to be set up at all but it would be nice to have a lil jump bc once i buy the bike ill probably be broke again looking for something on the east coast or near oh/ky

i have found a legal spot for me and a friend (very hard to find/keep spots in holland) so i promised to thank some guys for that with a short clip.. i am very happy with this spot, and its big fun to ride there! <br />
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/25203652" title="arjan 6-2011 on Vimeo" target="_blank">arjan 6-2011 on Vimeo</a>
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/25203652" title="arjan 6-2011 on Vimeo" target="_blank">arjan 6-2011 on Vimeo</a>
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got a bit bored tonight and decided to go out and shoot the moon...<br />
shot with a 400mm 2.8 with a 2X on a 1D body.

Anyone have a newer large gb zune up for sale????

Thought this might help some out. It did me. <br />
I took this off of r6-forum<br />
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<font color="red">PRELOAD</font><br />
This adjustment is always found on the top of the forks. Clockwise increases preload, counter clockwise decreases it. The adjusters are usually integrated into the fork cap and are sometimes differentiated by color. The preload adjuster may have adjustment lines machined into it so that you can compare to check that they are even. <br />
<br />
Preload is initially used when setting SAG. Preload can be added if the rider experiences the forks “diving” under hard braking. A more accurate way of assessing “dive” is to attach a thin zip tie on the slider tube (make sure that it slides easily but is not sloppy), or place an appropriately sized rubber “o” ring on the tube that slides into the fork leg (this will require one fork being removed). The zip tie/O-ring will allow you to see how much of the fork travel you are using. If the zip tie/O-ring is firmly against the dust scraper or axle casting, then the fork is bottoming out. In that case you need to add more preload, and then check the zip tie/O-ring again. If the zip tie/O-ring rests 5mm prior to the dust scraper or axle casting, this indicates that you are using almost all of the available travel. <br />
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<br />
<font color="red">REBOUND</font><br />
The rebound adjuster is usually located in the center of the preload adjuster, and commonly requires a flat head screwdriver to be used for making adjustments (there are exceptions like Ohlins which require Allen wrenches). Sometimes the adjustments are measured in “clicks”, other times in degrees of turn. Usually OEM settings are in the middle of adjustment.<br />
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Firstly turn the rebound adjusters all the way in on both forks and write down how many turns/clicks there were. Then take the rebound adjustment all the way out on both forks so that you know how much total adjustment there is. With the adjustment all the way out, hold the front brake on to lock the wheel and then push down vigorously on the forks. As the forks begin their upstroke, let them move naturally and observe the action of the fork. The stroke may come back and then return into the downward motion once more, and may even return again on the upstroke (do not let go of the front brake while doing this!!). <br />
<br />
Then adjust the rebound all the way in on both forks, repeat the pumping action with the front brake fully engaged and observe the difference in the range of motion –the forks will rise back up slowly. What you are trying to achieve is the fork rising back almost to the top of the first rebound stroke and staying there. You will need to work the adjusters so that they are always the same on both legs until you have the rebound action set correctly.<br />
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<font color="red">COMPRESSION</font><br />
These adjusters are usually found on the underside of the fork or close to the brake calipers at the bottom of the fork facing the rider. They commonly require a flat head screwdriver to be used for making adjustments (there are exceptions like Ohlins which require Allen wrenches). Sometimes the adjustments are measured in “clicks”, other times in degrees of turn. Usually OEM settings are in the middle of adjustment.<br />
<br />
Firstly turn the compression adjusters all the way in on both forks and write down how many turns/clicks there were. Then take the compression adjustment all the way out on both forks so that you know how much total adjustment there is. With the adjustment all the way out, hold the front brake on to lock the wheel and then push down vigorously on the forks. You will be able to feel the way in which the forks move through the downward/compression stroke, which will be fairly easily (do not let go of the front brake while doing this!!). <br />
<br />
Then adjust the compression all the way in on both forks, repeat the pumping action with the front brake fully engaged and observe/feel the difference in the range of motion –the forks will compress more quickly and will not travel as far on the compression stroke up. What you are trying to achieve is the compression stroke allowing the fork to move without restricting the amount of travel in the fork, which causes the sensation of “packing”. You will need to work the adjusters so that they are always the same on both legs until you have the compression action set correctly.<br />
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NOTE: compression adjustment is very subjective compared to the rebound adjustment that is very easy to see. It takes a lot more feel when making adjustments, which will take time to acquire.<br />
<br />
Also note that compression can be used in tandem with preload adjustment to help prevent the forks bottoming out. This is not the right solution to the bottoming issue, but one that helps in the interim.

<img src="images/legacy/smilies/shruggs.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Shruggs" class="inlineimg" /><img src="images/legacy/smilies/shruggs.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Shruggs" class="inlineimg" />